“Boredom makes men to villains. And the cold makes men mad.” — The Lighthouse
Be responsible — get the new winter board you’ve been thinking about..
so it’s here in time for the first proper NW. The South Pacific’s winding down, the North Pacific is starting to stir. We saw our first NW swell come through at the end of September, complimenting Narda, but it’ll be a few weeks before we get a proper NW swell (likely early-mid Nov) and for the South Pacific to settle into it’s spring. October is the turning point — north daylight shortens, high altitude winds crank up and come south, the Aleutian low deepens and bigger storms track east across the Pacific. There’s a pretty solid chance La Niña is starting sooner (Oct-Dec) than it did last year (Dec-Mar), but it’s similarly weak. So if you think about it — buying a new board (or getting someone like Matt to shape one for you) now is planning ahead. TL;DR what we’re seeing is North Pacific swells starting slow, but we have plenty of fun days from the last bits of southern activity through the middle of Oct.
“Put your wetsuit on usually before the booties.” — Mason Ho in Caveheart
Santa Ana Winds start to pick up..
when high pressure builds over the deserts of the Great Basin. Air sinks, heats, and rushes west — funneled through canyons until it rips out over LA hot, dry, and offshore. The first day of Santa Ana winds last year was October 18th 2024. There’s nada on the schedule — it’s all S & WSW winds right now — but we’re on the lookout for this year’s canon event.
“If you want water you can dip your head in the camel trough out the back.” — old sketch guy in Motel Hell
